Lower Blackwood LCDC » All Replies https://lowerblackwood.com.au/forums/feed/ Mon, 15 Jun 2026 21:54:18 +0800 http://bbpress.org/?v=2.5.14-6684 en-AU https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/grazing-management/forum/discussion/mosaic-grazing/#post-30313 <![CDATA[Mosaic Grazing]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/grazing-management/forum/discussion/mosaic-grazing/#post-30313 Wed, 03 Jun 2026 07:31:35 +0000 Lower Blackwood LCDC This is interesting, anyone done this here? Be good to get some thoughts in how it might be applied in our context and if it would achieve what he claims. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1L6Vb8cvif/?mibextid=wwXIfr

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/grazing-management/forum/discussion/managing-donkeys-in-high-rainfall-south-west-wa-in-the-winter/#post-30274 <![CDATA[Managing Donkeys in High Rainfall South West WA in the winter]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/grazing-management/forum/discussion/managing-donkeys-in-high-rainfall-south-west-wa-in-the-winter/#post-30274 Wed, 27 May 2026 05:07:36 +0000 Kate Tarrant Hi there, just wondering if anyone out there has experience with Donkeys. Just before summer last year we acquired two, a mother and a foal (they were feral, caught above Geraldton). No problem with grazing in the summer as it is all dry feed but now we have lush green pastures which I know are no good for donkeys. My original plan had been to run the donkeys with the sheep as guardians but given their dietary requirements I don’t think this is going to be possible. We have now corralled them into a small paddock with very little feed in it other than hay for day time and at night time they get access to a larger paddock with grass. Any thoughts on this – will it still be too rich for them even if sugars in the grass are lower at night?? Very happy to learn from other’s experience!

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/page/3/#post-28308 <![CDATA[Reply To: Starting from scratch]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/page/3/#post-28308 Fri, 28 Nov 2025 04:07:35 +0000 Mark Tupman Hi Wen,

I just read your post and would suggest that in terms of effectiveness, allowing weeds to germinate first then lightly tilling or spraying will likely be more effective than dry seeding. Dry seeding is easy and cheap and can be used when you already have a stand of good existing species, i.e perennials, in the field or if weeds aren’t likely to be a big burden. Neither of these situations applies to you at this stage.

Regards

Mark

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/page/2/#post-26255 <![CDATA[Reply To: Starting from scratch]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/page/2/#post-26255 Sun, 09 Nov 2025 09:02:33 +0000 Ie Wen Kwee Hi Max,

Thank you very much for your detailed response and all the great advice. I hope my queries/comments below keep the conversation general enough that it’s still useful for others in a similar situation.

– How quickly would the weeds respond to the adjustment in soil PH? I assume planting cover crops or pasture into any weed ridden fields would still need to address the weeds in the first couple of seasons. Appreciating that tilling is not a long term strategy due to damage to soil structure/microbes etc. would light tillage to knock down weeds immediately followed by sowing be so detrimental just to start? Or would the preference still be to sow before the weeds germinate and suppress weeds just by action of the cover crops?

– Without disc equipment is broadcasting and light rolling a feasible alternative to using disc equipment without damaging the soil?

– I do not unfortunately have access to livestock (except for 3 goats). I understand the great benefit of livestock, but is regenerative agriculture possible without? Any other tips/tricks/methods to improve soil biology (already considering innoculants on seed or direct injected). And for regenerating gravel/bare ground?

Thank you again.

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/#post-26179 <![CDATA[Reply To: Starting from scratch]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/#post-26179 Sat, 08 Nov 2025 01:29:02 +0000 Max Stam I would start by checking soil pH and add lime if needed. I’d suggest, based on your weeds, it will be. A simple soil test kit is available from your garden centre or hardware store. Get the pH right and most of your weeds will fade away. When Weeds Talk is a great book to help figure lots of this out. Ask your local library to get it in.

Johnson Su compost takes 12 months but you can gain much benefit from vermicompost extracts and vermicompost is available for sale in Perth.

Ideally your covercrop seed should be treated with compost extract or the extract placed in furrow with the seed. Disc equipment is much better for placing your seed because it does less damage to your fungi.

Animals are very important. They add biology to the soil which is by far the biggest part of regen ag. Diversity helps too. Cattle followed by sheep followed by poultry is a good blend. The animals need to be very confined and moved often. Providing a mineral station with a diverse range of possible minerals needed. The animals will hammer those tubs that are most needed and leave the ones not needed. Then they crap it out and spread it for you.

Unless you are in a very dry region, irrigation is def NOT needed.

Look up bale grazing for your gravelly area. Again confine to a small area around each bale.

There are those who recommend spraying but these have not yet understood that tilling and spraying is what got us into this mess in the first place. Roundup kills soil biology.

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/#post-26016 <![CDATA[Starting from scratch]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/starting-from-scratch/#post-26016 Thu, 06 Nov 2025 23:09:46 +0000 Ie Wen Kwee I have been listening with great interest to all of the podcasts about establishing multispecies pastures and cover crops, succession planting and soil/soil microbe health. The basis however for most of these discussions is with an assumption of having some established pasture to build on. I’d love to hear some thoughts and advice for those who are starting from scratch. Here’s a few questions that come to mind, and if I may I’ll follow with what I’m facing as an example.

Is cover cropping a good way to start?

Is multi-species helpful at the start or would a cheap and easy-to-grow monoculture be a better stepping stone?

Is irrigation needed to get started?

Is tilling and/or spraying recommended to get a jump on weeds?

Can it be done without grazing animals?

What are common mistakes for someone trying to rehabilitate land?

A bit about my situation: I have taken on management of a small family property (28acres) which has for the last 10-12 years been neglected. The soil is compacted and has large swathes of soursob or cape weed monocultures. We also have an elevated sloped area which has minimal to no soil cover, is very gravelly and sheds vast amounts of water very quickly. We have no livestock. Equipment wise we have a slasher and hoe.

My goal for now is purely land improvement as I am in the lucky position of not being financially reliant on the property. I would however eventually like to run a free small scale activities for profit.

I am loath to spray because we’re located on a tributary to the swan and would prefer not to exclude the kids and goats from the sprayed “pastures”. Where does that leave us?

My plan is to start trialling cover cropping with as cheap a mix as possible and which contain the 5 families (grass, legumes, brassicas,cereals and chenopods) in 3 scenarios:

  1. A 3000m2 weed ridden field
  2. buffer and inter-row planting on an ailing orchard
  3. A strip or patch on the bare hill

I figure the process will be slow but the hope is that as long as there is some growth then there is some contribution to the soil and I would get improvements year on year. Does this sound like a reasonable approach for a heavily degraded landscape?

One thing that Mark Tupman raised in the soil systems podcast that caught my attention was that covers should be planted in autumn ideally dry or before the weeds get a chance to germinate after first rains. I have heard some conflicting advice that I should let the weeds germinate then do a light slash+surface till before cover cropping so that I also start reducing the weed seed bank. Thoughts? Brooke Devine in regenerating your farm and waterways even suggests spraying.

I’m excited to get started but also am worried about sinking time and finances into activities with no hope of success.

As an aside, I am also now building a Johnson su compost into which I’m incorporating biochar and which I will use to innoculate the cover crop the following season. (Ideally each different measure would be trialled separately but I’m one person working a desk job alongside the farm so can only do so much!)

I look forward to hearing your thoughts!

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/5/#post-24915 <![CDATA[Reply To: A bit of biomass to chew through.]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/5/#post-24915 Sun, 02 Nov 2025 01:46:25 +0000 Deborah Orr Thanks for posting Brett, great to see what you are doing and it is very inspiring.

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/4/#post-23431 <![CDATA[Reply To: A bit of biomass to chew through.]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/4/#post-23431 Mon, 13 Oct 2025 08:56:16 +0000 Mark Tupman Hi Brett,

Thanks for sharing.

It’s all in the timing.

Last year, the comeback of multi species plots at Nevs’ was worse in strips that were grazed a bit later, maybe because the plants had started going to seed and exhausted reserves?

On the flip side, species like chicory, plantain etc… need enough time to get established before grazing.

This year, on a property in Boddington, we went in a bit earlier (as soon as the first species started to flower) on a somewhat graze tolerant multi-species mix – forage barley, oats, serradella, chicory, plantain, clover, forage brassica ryegrass, phalaris…

Will keep you posted on how it plays out.

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/3/#post-22997 <![CDATA[Reply To: A bit of biomass to chew through.]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/3/#post-22997 Tue, 07 Oct 2025 09:05:44 +0000 Kate Tarrant Yes be interesting to see what’s happening below – might be good to bring a sample to the LCDC to take a look down the microscope 😀

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https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/2/#post-22646 <![CDATA[Reply To: A bit of biomass to chew through.]]> https://lowerblackwood.com.au/groups/perennial-pastures/forum/discussion/a-bit-of-biomass-to-chew-through/page/2/#post-22646 Tue, 07 Oct 2025 03:24:30 +0000 Brett Hazelden Hey Kate

agree we should be looking to fence down some of the alley ways and we have recently got some kiwitech mobile electric fencing. So on the list to try out.

I was going through there today and I think there is enough in one of the paddocks for another month at least. I’ve got 7 paddocks though.

plus it’s growing more each day.

all we have done this year is to line and till it in, we sprayed out before seeding and then put on. Foliar spray post emergence with some added fungi, bacteria and microbes from growsafe

need to go dig some test pits to see what the roots are doing and how the soil is looking.

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